Dried flowers have come a long way since vases of dusty honesty seed heads you may remember as a child. Floral artists such as Bex Partridge are showcasing the variety of ways in which the beauty of flowers can be sustained and even enhanced with the right drying techniques and imaginative ways of displaying them.
If you run a floristry or flower growing business, drying blooms is of course a great way to extend your season, sold as stems or incorporated into wreaths and other autumn and winter displays. Don’t wait until your plants start to set seed: you need to start cutting when they’re at their prime (or just before). At Field Gate, we’ve been cutting for drying since early June, including the following:
Amaranthus – cut at the base of the stem when flowers are just out.
Ammi – these turn a delicate ivory when dried and are not readily available to buy, so a good one to add to your collection.
Echinops – cut when the flowers first appear. Leave too late and they’ll go to seed.
Gypsophila – a great flower for drying. Cut from the bases of the team when most of the flowers are out.
Helichrysum (Xerochrysum) – papery blooms, made for drying. Cut throughout summer to encourage more flower heads.
Honesty (Lunaria annua) – pick for the seed heads, when the stem is dry and the pods start to turn lightly brown.
Hydrangea – cut heads at the base of the stem when flowers are about to turn. Dry by the dehydration method (see below)
Lavender – pick when in full colour and still looking bright.
Limonium (Statice) – cut when fully open, leaving stem wings intact. Flowers dry naturally on the stem, so there’s almost nothing for you to do.
Nigella – cut when the seed heads have formed but the plant has not started to die off. The seed heads are beautifully delicate and structural. Remove the wispy foliage before hanging to dry.
Zinnia – cut each stem as the flower blooms and more will follow.
Methods of drying:
AIR DRYING
One of the easiest ways to dry out flowers is to hang them upside down and allow the moisture to evaporate into the air. This is great for robust flowers, such as roses and long-lasting varieties, like lavender. Strip away any excess foliage, secure your stems with an elastic band or string and hang in a dry, shady spot away from direct sunlight. We hang ours in our workshop on a dolly’s maid airer – perfect for this. The stems will shrink as you dry so make sure you have tied them tight enough to keep them together.
MICROWAVE DRYING
Pop your flowers in the microwave if you want to dry them fast. This technique is also ideal if you want to preserve single flowers, such as chrysanthemums.
All you’ll need is a microwavable container and, strangely, some cat litter to use as drying agent (or silica gel). Place the flower upon a layer of the drying agent and pour more gently over the petals. Heat on a low power for 30 second intervals. Check every 30 seconds to see how the process is going – it should take 2-5 minutes to dry the bloom completely. Make sure you stay next to the microwave whilst it’s in operation. When complete, remove and dust any traces of litter.
DRYING WITH SILICA GEL
Silica gel (yes, the curious substance inside those little sachets you find packaged with new leather shoes and bags) is a drying agent that can be readily bought from craft shops. You can use this to dry out your blooms by either using the microwave technique (above) or by gently burying your flowers in a container filled with the ‘gel’ and leaving them for a week to dry out.
THE DEHYDRATION METHOD
Large robust blooms, like hydrangea can be dried by leaving them in their vase of water – and doing nothing. Once the water has evaporated the flowers will dry gradually. This method usually takes 2-3 weeks and will help retain more of their fresh-flower vibrancy than if left to dry with air alone. Coloured hydrangeas fare better than white ones.
For more tips and conversation on growing, cutting and arranging your blooms, subscribe to The Cut Flower Podcast with Roz Chandler.
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